This is a general FAQ for Kongai. If you don't find an answer to your question here, check out Kongai Quirks for more in-depth game oddities, or alternatively you can often find a helpful experienced player in Kongai Game Chat Room #1.
Introductory Video to KongaiEdit
Made by the famous Asneo.
What starters should I pick?Edit
Don't pick starters yet! The system is a bit weird, so it's actually best to hold on picking starters at first, and instead play some games using a random deck. The odds of winning cards are greatly increased while you have fewer than 10 cards; playing random also helps you learn what cards you like.
So for best results, win 10 cards playing random, THEN do the current challenge(s), THEN pick your starters to match the other cards you have.
Note that, in order to be able to pick item cards as starters, you must own at least 3 character cards. Within a deck, multiples of the same character card are not allowed; but multiples of the same item card are allowed. As a consequence, picking item cards as starters is more beneficial in the long-run. This will only matter if you'll be playing Kongai for a long time, though: for most players, simply picking a combination of characters and items to match what cards you won will work fine. There are some items which are more overall useful than others (and thus, are more useful to have multiple copies of), Necronomic Tome and Scroll of Inner Focus being the prime examples of such items.
I just won a card, but it messes up when I add it to my deck.Edit
Refresh the game. There is a bug that causes cards you just won to not be correctly recognized by the game at first, but a simple refresh fixes the problem.
Critical hits do not work that way. The hit chance and crit chance are rolled on the same die. Think of someone rolling a 100-sided die, with 1-50 being a critical hit, 51-60 being a regular hit, and 61-100 being a miss. Therefore there is a 50% it would crit for 60 damage, 10% chance it would hit for 20 damage and 40% chance it would miss entirely for 0 damage.
What is the best deck?Edit
The simple answer is that no one deck is the best in all situations and match-ups. Even if certain characters are overpowered (which may not be true), a deck built with them can and will have other decks that counter it. The question you should ask is "what is the best deck for me?". As you get familiar with the characters find the ones that work well for you and have the abilities you want. Ask around for suggestions, but to build your best deck you are simply going to have to experiment and tinker until you find it.
Andro sucks for many reasons. She loses to the characters she fights the most, for instance, anex/phoebe/auger destroy her. Furthermore, Andro has an a very specific niche of cards she is good against: close monorangers and cards with 0 physical resistance. Andromeda is good against the former because innate+lightning arrow allow range dancing and poking; the latter, because RoA is devestating to them, and hits fleeing. However, dual rangers, and far focused fighters, destroy Andro. Andro has a problem with being able to counterattack far focused characters effectively with her weak nuke. Andromeda has some problems with her attack set as well: trueshot is weak for its energy cost and rain of arrows is ruined by physical resistance. Also, crippling shot is weak and unreliable. Gambling on its 50% proc is not a good strategy. Lightning arrow is Andro's unique attack that makes her very good vs some characters, but it can only be used every other turn (to stop it from being unbalanced). Another issue is that she's a monoranger, but unlike melee monorangers, she's not tanky. Other far focused characters have options at close range that can dmg or prolong their life. Not so with Andromeda.
How did my opponent hit me after I cast Shadow Curse 5 times?Edit
Hit rate debuffs do not work that way. If someone has an attack with a 95% chance to hit, for example, you multiply the debuff(s) by this figure -- you do not subtract it. So with a 95% to hit attack, 5 Shadow Curses means you would have a .95 * .8 * .8 * .8 * .8 * .8 = 31.1% chance to hit. (Note that Dodge effects, such as Elusive Feather and Popo's innate ability, ARE subtracted first, not multiplied.)
I keep on getting matched with higher ranked opponents! It's not fair!Edit
Believe it or not, highly ranked players hate playing you just as much as you hate playing them! This is because of how the ranking system works; it was based on Halo's system, a game which doesn't have the same luck factor. If you're playing someone 15 ranks above you (the highest possible difference), you stand to win 150 rank points if you win but you'll only lose less than 50 points if you lose.
This makes it very difficult for the higher player to win rank points on average from someone of a lower level - in this example they'd need to win 75% of their games just to break even. Winning that often against a decent opponent is very difficult. So, you may be facing a tough opponent, but you will lose very little if you lose and win big if you do win.
Also, as ranks increase very rapidly over low levels, there's a good chance that the person 5 ranks above you has only ever played about that many more games of Kongai than you have. If you are facing someone with a very high number of games played (i.e. level) but low skill rank (say, 25 or less), they're probably not very good at all, as anyone that's played a lot and is a good player should've made it to SR28-29 at least (or higher). (See also: next entry.)
How good is Skill Rank __?Edit
Skill ranks roughly compare to actual levels of skill as follows:
- Under SR20: Awful or new.
- SR21-24: Below average player, has a lot to learn. Though because of the advance strategies the Wiki offers, about 30% of these players now are above average or good (not counting alts)
- SR25-26: Average player
- SR27-29: Slightly above average player - starting to get good. (Note that some players consider this range only average, because you can technically achieve Skill Rank 29 with a 50/50 win/loss record if you play enough games.)
- SR30-35: A good player; they probably know what they're doing.
- SR36-39: A top player.
- SR40-45: A very skilled player.
- SR45-50: One of the best.
Why can't we trade cards?Edit
Trading cards would be far too abuseable. Anyone could easily make a new account and earn some quick cards to trade around. Trading will simply never be implemented in Kongai.
Something weird happened, I think it's a bug.Edit
The most likely culprit is Phoebe disabling your item with her innate ability. If you're positive this isn't the reason, look at the Kongai Quirks page, which covers most of the existing game bugs. Others bugs may be included on the specific relevant page, such as Boomerang Chakkra.
My opponent disconnected when he was about to lose.Edit
Don't worry, he isn't avoiding anything. It still counts as a loss for him and a win for you. All it means is you have to wait a little bit. Feel free to take some satisfaction in causing a ragequit. Also, this behavior gets a lot less common as you get higher in rank. You can still win cards when an opponent quits in this fashion.
What's the chances of winning a card?Edit
You have a 3% chance to win a card per ranked game you win, and a 1% chance per unranked game you win. These odds are significantly higher (30% for ranked, 10% unranked) when you have fewer than 10 total cards, which is part of the reason why you shouldn't pick starter cards until you have 10 cards already.
You can also get cards by completing the weekly game challenges, or by purchasing them.
This game is all about luck!Edit
The game is mostly skill and a bit of luck. If you are losing a lot of games, it's probably because you need more practice. If you lose the occasional game because of luck, you'll win the occasional game because of luck too, and it'll even out in the long run. Simply put, the same people wouldn't be able to consistently keep winning more than the rest if the game was all luck.
There should be new cards.Edit
There will be new cards. The new sets are Robots and Witches. Expect them in maybe 2 months or so. (Early August 2010)
Pirates kicked off the release in the week of Thur. Apr. 1st, with the pirate set, and strapping first mate. (Pirates, Apr. 1, 2010)
Rumiko + Flash Powder is a good idea!Edit
Actually is isn't all that bad. The new Flash Powder increases her ability to evade intercept attempts to 90%. Rumiko does lose some options when she's not using Scroll of Inner Focus. ==
Mindreader's Chalice on Higashi is awesome!Edit
No, it really isn't. In almost all cases, Higashi isn't enough of a threat that someone will be trying to switch out at full health anyway, so the difference between 60 and 75 damage is almost always irrelevant.
What item should I use with __________?Edit
NOTE: The best items list was devised prior to the stats of many items and characters being reworked.
For the most part the recommended items are still good choices if not the best. But since the update balance is better so many more items are viable choices for a character than before. See the individual character pages for more item matchup info.
Items in brackets are clearly inferior choices, generally only worth picking if you want to use the character but don't have any items listed before the brackets. "Standard" choices appear in bold.
- Higashi: Insignia, Crane, [Caltrops]
- Rumiko: Scroll, Flash Powder, Yellow Rock, Insignia, [Caltrops]
- Onimaru: Scroll, [Salve, Totem]
- Yoshiro: Insignia, Scroll, [Caltrops]
- Amaya: Scroll, Figurine, Crane [Caltrops]
- Andromeda: Sharpening Stone, 'Herbal', Breastplate, [Totem]
- Helene: Herbal, Candle, Breastplate, Sharpening Stone, [Valk, Totem]
- Phoebe: Sharpening Stone, Breastplate, Herbal, Candle, [Valk, Totem]
- Anex: Sharpening Stone, Breastplate, Herbal, Candle, Valk, [Totem]
- Ashi: Sharpening Stone, Breastplate, Herbal, Candle, [Valk, Totem]
- Juju: Feather, Girdle, [Salve, Mask, Chalice]
- Ubuntu: Mask, Quickening Powder, Chalice, [Feather]
- Popo: Feather, Poison, Insignia
- Tafari: Poison, Insignia, [Mask, Feather]
- Zina: Poison, [Mask, Feather]
- CC: Tome, Vial, Girdle
- Cain: Tome, Phylactery, [Insignia]
- Ambrosia: Tome, Insignia, Vial, [Girdle]
- MLM: Insignia, Tome, [Ring, Salve, Girdle, Phylactery, Totem]
- VV: Tome, Vial, [Phylactery]
Other items can be used in a pinch (Totem is at least sort of good on everybody for example), but they should generally be avoided if you have the choice.
This guy keeps taking the maximum time allowed and stalling the game.Edit
Welcome to the internet! There's a good chance that he's actually thinking, though he might just be a jerk. Fortunately, Kongai doesn't take your full attention, so you can do other things while you wait - and even at the max time limits the game still goes quickly. As you gain ranks, the number of people who stall or disconnect reduces dramatically.
Why would anyone waste money on virtual cards?Edit
While not many people buy cards, there is absolutely nothing wrong with it. In no way is "earning" cards better than buying them. All you're doing is exchanging money to increase your enjoyment of the game - if you are enjoying Kongai but would enjoy it more with better card access, then buying cards is a perfectly reasonable choice.
Compare it with going to a movie -- instead of spending $10 for 2 hours of entertainment you could spend a couple bucks for dozens hours of entertainment. The fact that the cards aren't physical and cannot be resold is truly irrelevant.
What does 'proc' meansEdit
It's the chance of a special effect happening. For example, Rumiko's Eviscerate has a 100% hit rate and a 70% proc. This means (assuming there aren't other outside factors) that she will always hit with the move and deal damage, but will only stun the enemy 70% of the time. To Hit and To Proc are separate rolls. Some attacks can miss but still proc (like Sadie's Demon Frenzy).
Juju's Touch of Doom is cheap!Edit
Not so much, no. It's slow, expensive, and need several turns before it activates. It IS powerful, but it can be interrupted, and even someone with ToD cast on them still has 4 turns alive to try and dish out some extra damage.
Tafari is too strongEdit
Tafari basically has an amazingly good innate and one moderately good move. While he can give certain characters trouble, most, in fact, have a good match-up against him - and some, such as Ambrosia, utterly dominate him. While he's a good character, he's far from being too strong.
Also note that sometimes it can be a good idea to purposely set off his Leafy Trap, or even to let him Ambush you instead of going far. It's better to take damage to deal some damage than to sit back eating Poison Darts and die without dealing any damage. Characters such as Onimaru, for example, will often want to take the Ambush damage while they're using a strong move like Double Slash.